It’s early in the morning and just near freezing temperatures on this crisp Wednesday, January 31, 1979. Just after 6:45 am and the Southern Railroad’s Crescent locomotives have started pulling the passenger train out of the New Orleans Union Passenger Terminal (NOUPT) station platform for its last run. Travelers are getting settled into their coach seats for the exciting 26 hour farewell pull to Washington, DC. This is the last passenger train operated by a private company, the Southern Railroad held onto its prestigious and popular Crescent for over eight years and now this is the swan song run before giving control over to Amtrak on Thursday, February 1, 1979.

A few miles down the line travelers peer through vast window views of Lake Pontchartrain and the eastern sunrise glistens off the waters between cattails and swamp bogs. The club car starts to see a trickle of guests and waiter in charge, Joseph Mc Michael is getting ready for the exhausting trip segment to Atlanta, he knows the car will soon be packed with thirsty patrons.ⁱ Railroad waiters, waitresses, porters, cooks and chefs throughout North America tell a different story about their work a day world in the railway commissary services, meal preparation and exquisite culinary delicacies for awaiting traveler patrons, “all aboard” for the opportunity to relive a slice of life from the days of yore.

This was the Golden Age of modern North American railroad passenger service and the heyday of on board dining cuisine. And even today the tradition of railroad dining lives with Amtrak and several special excursion trains that operate passenger service schedules throughout the year, and I’ll highlight a few of those excursion trains that operate today.

North American railroad passenger service provided 100% of the intercity travel between the 1800’s and 1910.ⁱⁱ And in 1929 approximately 65,000 railroad passenger cars were in operation.ⁱⁱⁱ Before the advent of Amtrak in 1971 there were still more than a dozen railroads operating passenger service, and six of them continued to run even after the government mandated Rail Passenger Service Act of 1970.^iv The Southern Railroad was the last to relinquish operations of their Southern Crescent passenger line to Amtrak in 1979. Today’s rail service is a far cry from what it was years ago, but with the current economic conditions and a focus to going green, rail passenger figures have shown some increases in the past year. Just recently the Congress and House of Representatives passed the economic stimulus package that includes $8 billion dollars to go towards capital assistance for the combined categories of Intercity Passenger Rail Service (the same program that got $30 million in Fiscal 2008) and High Speed Rail Corridors.^v A new and possibly “Green Age” of modern railroad travel may soon prove to be one answer to the energy crisis and mass transportation concerns that we face in America today!

The Food Buzz Meal Event

It is with anticipated excitement that we present the menu selection honoring North American Railroad Dining – Celebrating Fine Dining on Rails and the Food Buzz “24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog’s” for February 2009. Combining my love and passion for both cooking and North American railroads this blog post celebrates the “Golden Age” of modern railroad dining with this four course meal highlighting some of the daily food fare found on dining cars that ran across the continental rails.

Recipes of each menu item are included for those who may wish to recreate the days of yore dining by rail. Below you will see that I have listed the original recipes that were prepared on the respective railroads. And I have also provided the modified current recipe, so you will see two sets of recipes, both the original and the new version. I have taken the original recipes and spruced them up a bit by making them my own with today’s flavors and preparation techniques. The current modified version of the recipes are the ones prepared and photographed for the Food Buzz “24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog’s” meal event.

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Menu

Appetizer

Avocado Cocktail
inspired by the Southern Pacific Railroad

Soup

Oysters in Cream Stew
inspired by the Southern Railroad

Entrée

Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with Cream Gravy
inspired by the Western Pacific Railroad

Dessert

La Fonda Pudding
inspired by the Fred Harvey Company
service to the Santa Fe Railroad

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Railroad Dining Car Service Original Recipes…and a little history too!

Southern Pacific Lines

The Southern Pacific (SP) operated over 12,000 miles of track through contrasting geographical and climatic areas. The SP system traversed snow covered tracks in the high Sierra Nevada while on the same day would see trains passing thorough the desert temperatures near the Salton Sea in California. Probably the most notable passenger service that the SP included is The Sunset Limited, traveling from San Francisco and Los Angeles to New Orleans.

The Sunset Limited is the oldest named train in the United States still operating, having held the name since its inauguration in 1893. The Sunset Limited was Southern Pacific’s premier train, built for luxury first-class long-distance travel. Initially the Sunset Limited was an all-Pullman train, consisting only of sleeping cars and no coaches, running directly from New Orleans to San Francisco via Los Angeles. In 1924 the train received new all steel cars, replacing the old wooden cars. From its beginning in 1893 until streamlining in 1950, all the train’s cars featured 6-wheel trucks and were painted in dark olive green with black roofs and trucks.

The Sunset Limited featured such southern favorites as gumbo, specially roasted coffees, and fish from the Gulf of Mexico. The first collection of recipes used on the SP’s famous trains was organized in 1921 by Allen Pollok who was the dining car service manager at the time.^vi

Amtrak service of the Sunset Limited started on May 1, 1971, and operates between New Orleans and Los Angeles offering departures three days a week on Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. The Orlando to New Orleans segment of the route was discontinued after Hurricane Katrina and efforts to restore that portion of the route are under study at this time. CSX Transportation owns portions of the track between the two locations and repairs are still awaiting completion.

“Eating alone is not an option on the Sunset Limited: tables in the dining car are laid for four. That first night we were particularly lucky: David and Sheri were documentary film-makers from Boston off to visit relatives in California, and we hit it off immediately. But as we chatted over fresh fish and steak (cooked, not microwaved, in the kitchen below), we noticed the dining car was filling up with an extraordinary mixture of people.”

“Senior citizens and students, mothers with young children; tourists; ex-military personnel (they travel at a discount); groups of friends; solo drifters such as Texas Bob. Black and white, rich and poor, all of America, it seemed, was dining here, and everyone was talking to everyone else. This was curiously exhilarating.”

Read more in the article:
US by train: the rail way to see America from the online United Kingdom news source Telegraph UK as it unfolds an inspiring travelogue of two travelers, Paul Mansfield and his wife who rode the Amtrak Sunset Limited in 2008 from New Orleans to California. ^vii

With regular rail service to many California locations, including the produce capital of North America, we are honoring the Southern Pacific Lines by featuring their Avocado Cocktail as our appetizer for the Food Buzz “24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog’s” meal event.

Appetizer

Avocado Cocktail^viii

Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients
1	Med.	Avocado
2	Tbsp.	Catsup
2	Tbsp.	French Dressing (see recipe below)
Juice of		½ Lemon

Procedure Steps
1.	Cut avocado in half and gently remove the pit and then use a melon baller to scoop avocado from shell.
2.	Heap the avocado balls loosely into 4 cocktail glasses.
3.	Mix together catsup, French dressing and lemon juice. Cover each portion with one spoonful of the sauce and serve chilled.

French Dressing

Yield: 2 ¼ cupsIngredients
1	Tsp.	Paprika
1	Tbsp.	English mustard
1	Tsp.	Salt
1	Tbsp	White pepper
¼	Cup	White vinegar
2	Cups	Olive oil
2	Tbsp.	Cold water

Procedure Steps
1.	In mixing bowl, combine spices (first four ingredients). Moisten through with a few drops of vinegar.
2.	Pour oil slowly into the spice mixture, stirring constantly. When mixture begins to thicken, trickle in the remaining vinegar.
3.	Add cold water and mix thoroughly. Store in cooler until needed for use.

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Southern Railway

Waiting at Atlanta’s Brookwood station to welcome the Southern Crescent on its fateful and final journey were representatives from both Southern Railway and Amtrak.The passenger train arrived to a brief trackside ceremony and there was an exchange of flags between representatives of Southern and Amtrak symbolizing the transfer of responsibility for operation of the train. The Southern Railway hosted a ceremony held at Atlanta’s Diplomat Restaurant honoring eight on-train employees who played an important part in making the Southern Crescent’s name synonymous with quality passenger train service.

This is an excerpt from the back cover of a January 1978 Southern Railway passenger schedule: The Southern Crescent offers a Master Room accommodation daily in each direction between Washington and Atlanta, the only premium accommodation of this type in regular service on any passenger train in America – in the world! Generous room space and deluxe annex facilities, including a shower bath, are offered along with a sofa and two chairs for lounging. Two lower berths and one upper are available for bedtime and demand description as the ultimate in luxurious sleep car travel for two and complete comfort for a family of three, or even four. And you are always next door to the popular lounge. The Master Room is truly unique, so make travel plans early and call for reservations soon!^ix

The Southern Railway served most states east of the Mississippi River and south of the Mason Dixon line, so in honor of their Southern dining tradition we are featuring their Oyster Stew as our soup course for the Food Buzz “24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog’s” meal event.

Soup

Oysters in Cream Stew^x

Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients
24	Raw	Oysters in liquor
1	Quart	Heavy cream, hot

Procedure Steps
1.	In a saucepan over medium heat stew the oysters in their own juice until they curl, or about 8 minutes.
2.	In another saucepan, heat the cream taking care not to boil.
3.	Pour the stewed oysters and liquor into the hot cream and heat through, but do not let come to a boil. Serve with crackers.

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Western Pacific Railway

The Western Pacific’s best known passenger train was The California Zephyr also known as the CZ, or “Silver Lady”, the streamliner began service in 1949 between Oakland, California and Chicago, Illinois. This train was jointly operated with the Denver and Rio Grande Western (D&RGW) and the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy (CB&Q) railroads. The streamliner made the trip in about 49 hours and just about as it began service it was announced a success.

The train featured Vista-Dome coaches for travelers to enjoy the passing scenery of the west and this lured many from the new airplanes. It was purposely scheduled so that the train would pass through the most spectacular scenery in the daylight. The original CZ ceased operations in 1970, and has been operated by Amtrak since it’s take over, but on a somewhat hybrid route.

In honor of the Western Pacific Railway and the routes throughout the west and mid-western states, and in particular service to various and sundry cattle and livestock markets we are featuring their Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with Cream Gravy for the Food Buzz “24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog’s” meal event.

Entrée

Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with Cream Gravy^xi

Yield: 6 servingsIngredients
3	Lg.	Pork tenderloins
1	Tbsp.	Flour
2	Oz.	Butter
1	Cup	Heavy cream

Procedure Steps (NOTE: Pre-heat oven to 375° F.)
1.	Split pork tenderloins lengthwise and fill with dressing (see Raisin Dressing below).
2.	Tie the tenderloins with kitchen string to hold the filling.
3.	Dredge with the flour and arrange in roasting pan, then brush with melted butter.
4.	Roast in oven for about 25 minutes.
5.	Remove the tenderloins, sprinkle in a little flour in the pan, add the cream and let simmer on the stove top for a few minutes then strain.
6.	At service time remove the kitchen string and place open side down on platter and cover with the pan cream gravy.

Raisin Dressing (For Stuffed Pork Tenderloin)

Ingredients
1	Cup	Bread crumbs, fresh made
¼	Cup	Raisins, seedless
1	Oz.	Butter
1	Large	Egg
1	Pinch	Salt
1	Pinch	Cinnamon, ground
To moisten		Milk

Procedure Steps
1.	Mix ingredients well.

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Santa Fe Railroad & Fred Harvey Company

The Fred Harvey Company operated restaurants, cafes and hotels along the Santa Fe railroad primarily in the western and mid-western states of North America. A total of eighty-four Fred Harvey facilities operated along the western routes of the Santa Fe and were located in strategic rail stops offering patrons a place to rest and dine a lavish meal such as the La Fonda Hotel.

The current La Fonda Hotel was built in 1922 on the site of previous inns. In 1925 it was acquired by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, which leased it to Fred Harvey. From 1926 to 1968, La Fonda was one of the Harvey Houses, a renowned chain of fine hotels. Since 1968, La Fonda became locally owned and operated and has continued a tradition of warm hospitality, excellent service and modern amenities while maintaining its historic integrity and architectural authenticity. The La Fonda Hotel is still in operation today in the heart of Santa Fe, New Mexico.

In honor of the Harvey Hotels, the La Fonda Hotel Chocolate Pudding is featured as our dessert for the Food Buzz “24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog’s” meal event.

Dessert

La Fonda Pudding^xii

Yield: 8 servingsIngredients
1	Cup	Graham Crackers, finely crushed (12 each)
3	Each	Egg yolks, well beaten
1	Cup	Sugar
1/8	Tsp.	Salt
½	Cup	Walnuts, chopped
½	Tsp	Vanilla extract
1	Tsp	Baking powder
3	Each	Egg whites, beaten to light peaks
½	Cup	Walnuts, chopped

Procedure Steps
1.	Crush graham crackers fine using a rolling pin and set aside for a later use.
2.	Butter bottom and sides of baking pan and set aside.
3.	Separate egg yolks from whites. In medium mixing bowl, beat eggs until thickened and of a lemon color. Continue beating constantly as you gradually add the sugar.
4.	Into the egg yolk and sugar mixture, fold in the graham cracker crumbs, salt, chopped nuts, vanilla, and baking powder.
5.	Beat egg whites until light peaks form, then fold into the other mixture.
6.	Pour the mixture into a baking pan and bake for 45 minutes, or until inserted knife blade come out clean.
7.	Remove baking pan to wire rack and let cook for 10 minutes.
8.	Remove the pudding from the pan and cut into 2-inch squares.
9.	Serve topped with whipped cream and sprinkle of chopped walnuts.

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Food Buzz “24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog’s” Event Recipes

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The following recipes are inspired by the original railroad dining car services recipes, and have been updated to closely align with current cooking trends and tastes. I especially enjoy the fact that recipes evolve over decades and generations as preparation techniques, styles and ingredients change. And so it is true here that these decades old railroad dining car recipes are transformed into updated versions for today’s generations. These are the recipes that I have prepared for the Food Buzz “24 Meals, 24 Hours, 24 Blog’s” for February 2009.

Click on menu image for a larger view

For the appetizer I have added some melon and boiled shrimp and changed the dressing to a raspberry vinaigrette. The oyster stew recipe has been updated with crispy bacon, the addition of some flavoring with onions and celery as well as adding some body with diced Yukon Gold potatoes. And while the pork tenderloin recipe keeps a similar raisin stuffing version, I’ve added an additional step of marinating the meat and raisins in a beer and cider vinegar marinade. I’ve also changed the original cream gravy by added an apricot and Grand Mariner basting glaze. The pork tenderloin meat is succulent and melts in your mouth. The stuffing is made with 6 slices of 15 whole grain bread, 3 of the slices are turned into crumbs and the remaining slices are cubed. The stuffing also has orange zest, onions and celery with a bit of warm chicken stock for moisture. And finally with the La Fonda Pudding I’ve added cocoa powder and chocolate syrup to transform it into a chocolate lovers delight, which actually brings it more to a chewy chocolate brownie texture and flavor. The walnuts and graham crackers give it a whole new meaning for chocolate brownie lovers.

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Avocado and Shrimp Cocktail

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Yield: 8 servingsIngredients
¼	Cup	Olive oil
¼	Cup	Raspberry vinegar, divided
1	Tbsp	Honey
2	Tsp.	Dijon mustard
1	Tsp.	Thyme leaves, fresh chopped
2	Tsp.	Shallots, minced
½	Tsp.	Dry mustard
Pinch each		Salt and white pepper
2	Each	Avocados, ripe, cut into chunks or balls
2	Cups	Melon, honeydew or cantaloupe, cut into chunks or balls
1	Cup	Raspberries
32	Large	Shrimp, boiled, chilled, and peeled with tail on

Procedure Steps
1.	In a small mixing bowl combine the olive oil, 3 Tbsp. of the raspberry vinegar, honey, Dijon mustard, thyme, shallots, dry mustard, salt and pepper and incorporate well with a white whisk.
2.	Cut the avocados into chunks or using a melon baller to make balls. Toss the avocado with the remaining 1 Tbsp. of the raspberry vinegar to prevent oxidation or turning brown.
3.	Cut the melon into chunks or melon balls.
4.	Place the melon and avocado into four individual serving bowls or parfait glasses and then add four shrimp with the tails hanging off the edge of the bowl or glass, then add the raspberries on top.
5.	At service evenly sprinkle the raspberry vinaigrette over each serving.

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Oysters in Cream Stew

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Yield: 8 portionsIngredients
½	Lb.	Bacon, medium diced
¼	Lb.	Butter, unsalted (1 stick)
1	Cup	Onions, fine diced
1	Cup	Celery, fine diced
2	Tbsp.	Garlic, minced
1	Cup	Green onions, chopped (divided)
2	Tsp	Thyme, fresh, chopped
2	Tsp	Oregano, fresh chopped
1	Cup	Flour, all-purpose
½	Cup	White wine
2	Cups	Milk
½	Lb.	Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and small diced, blanched to al dente, drained and chilled
2	Cups	Heavy Cream
1	Quart	Oysters, drained and liquor liquid reserved
2	Cups	Heavy Cream
¼	Cup	Parsley, fresh chopped
To taste		Salt and white pepper

Procedure Steps
1.	Heat a large stock pot over a medium-high heat and cook the bacon until crisp, then remove and drain on a plate lined with paper towels, reserve for later. Remove all put 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat from the pan.
2.	Turn the heat to medium and then add the stick of butter and allow it to melt. Add the onions and celery and sweat until soft and translucent. Then add the garlic, ½ cup of the green onions, the thyme and oregano and stir well to incorporate. Add the flour and stir well to incorporate while absorbing the butter, bacon fat and vegetable juices until it forms a blond or light roux.
3.	Slowly add the white wine and stir well to incorporate until smooth. Then add the reserved oyster liquor and stir well to blend into the roux-white wine mixture, a wire whisk helps at this stage. Then add the milk and whisk well again. Add the potatoes and the heavy cream then bring the liquid to a boil then reduce heat to a low simmer for 10 minutes. If the consistency seems a bit too thick add more milk and stir well.
4.	Add the oysters and allow them to simmer until they just start to curl on the edges.
5.	Add the parsley and reserved bacon and simmer for another minute or so.

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Pork Tenderloin with Raisin Stuffing

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Yield: 8 portionsIngredients
2	Each	Pork tenderloins, 1 pound average each
Marinade
½	Cup	Raisins, dark
2	Cups	Beer
¼	Cup	Cider vinegar
Stuffing
6	Slices	Whole grain, multi-grain, or oatmeal bread (divided)
2	Tsp.	Orange zest
½	Cup	Onion, finely chopped
½	Cup	Celery, finely chopped
1	Tbsp	Fresh rosemary, chopped
1	Tbsp	Fresh thyme, chopped
Pinch each		Salt and white pepper
1	Cup	Chicken stock
Dry Rub
¼	Cup	Brown sugar
1	Tsp	Salt
1	Tsp	White pepper
Basting Mixture
2	Tbsp.	Apricot preserves
2	Tsp.	Dijon mustard
2	Tbsp	Grand Mariner (or any citrus liquor)
1	Tsp	Fresh rosemary, chopped

Procedure Steps
1.	Remove any “silver” skin and fat from the surface of the tenderloins. Rinse under water and pat dry. Cut a lengthwise slit down center of the tenderloins a little over 2/3 of the way through the meat. Place the tenderloins between 2 sheets plastic wrap, and flatten to an even thickness about 1/3 of an inch thick. Transfer the meat to a large flat container such as a roasting pan.
2.	In a small bowl combine raisins, beer and cider vinegar to make a marinade. Pour this over the pork tenderloins making sure that the meat is completely covered well. Marinade in the refrigerator at least 6 hours covered.
3.	Take 3 slices of the bread and place them into the bowl of a food processor and blend to form coarse bread crumbs. Cut the remaining 3 bread slices into ½-inch cubes. In a large bowl combine bread crumbs, bread cubes, orange zest, onions, celery, rosemary, thyme, and a pinch of salt and white pepper then mix well. Slowly add chicken stock creating a moist but not too wet stuffing that holds well together. Cover and set stuffing aside in the refrigerator until the tenderloins are finished marinating
4.	After at least 6 hours of marinating, pour off and discard the liquid but reserve the raisins. Add the raisins to the stuffing mix and stir well to incorporate.
5.	Combine brown sugar with 1 Tsp salt and 1 Tsp white pepper then rub this over all sides of the tenderloins.
6.	Spread the stuffing over the top of the open tenderloins to within ½-inch from all edges. Roll up each tenderloin in a jellyroll fashion, starting at the narrow end. Tie each tenderloin securely with kitchen string at 2-inch intervals.
7.	Place a wire rack into a shallow roasting pan and arrange the tenderloins into the pan at least 3 – 4 inches apart. Roast uncovered in a 350° F oven.
8.	Combine the apricot preserves, Dijon mustard, Grand Mariner and the 1 Tsp. of fresh rosemary to create the basting mixture. Occasionally baste the tenderloins with the prepared basting mixture. Roast for 50 minutes, or until they reach an internal temperature of 145° F. Remove the pan from the oven and cover loosely with foil and allow to rest 10 minutes before slicing into ½-thick portions.

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La Fonda Pudding

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Yield: 9 portionsIngredients
1 ½	Cup	Graham Crackers, finely crushed (divided)
3	Each	Egg yolks, well beaten
1	Cup	Sugar
1/8	Tsp.	Salt
1	Cup	Walnuts, chopped (divided)
½	Tsp	Vanilla extract
1	Tsp	Baking powder
2	Tbsp	Bakers cocoa powder
3	Each	Egg whites, beaten to light peaks
½	Cup	Chocolate syrup
2	Cups	Whipped cream

Procedure Steps
1.	Crush graham crackers fine using a rolling pin and set aside for a later use.
2.	Butter bottom and sides of baking pan and set aside.
3.	Separate egg yolks from whites. In medium mixing bowl, beat eggs until thickened and of a lemon color. Continue beating constantly as you gradually add the sugar.
4.	Into the egg yolk and sugar mixture, fold in the 1 cup graham cracker crumbs, salt, ½ cup of the chopped nuts, vanilla, baking powder and cocoa powder.
5.	Beat egg whites until light peaks form, then fold into the other mixture.
6.	Pour the mixture into a baking pan and bake for 45 minutes, or until inserted knife blade come out clean.
7.	Remove baking pan to wire rack and let cook for 10 minutes.
8.	Remove the pudding from the pan and cut into 9 even squares.
9.	Serve each portion topped evenly with whipped cream, then sprinkle on top the graham cracker crumbs, a sprinkle of chopped walnuts and then the chocolate syrup.

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Excursion Passenger Railways in N. America
These are just a small sample of the scenic and excursion passenger railroads that operate today in N. America. For a complete list of excursion railways check out Great Scenic Railway Journeys.

Alaska Railroad Special Event Trains

American Rail Excursions, Inc

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad

Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Grand Canyon Railway

Great Smoky Mountains Railroad

Tweetsie Railroad

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External Links

Riding the Rails in Style, with a Private Car – August 17, 2006 · Some railroad buffs looking for luxury travel are willing to spend big bucks to ride on a vintage train car. The restored private cars often feature formal dining rooms, plasma televisions and fine wood interiors. Fewer than 250 such cars exist in the United States — Ann Thompson of member station WVXU in Cincinnati found one, and has a report. Riding the Rails in Style, with a Private Car (3:24)

The Romance of Train Travel Never Fades – October 30, 2005 · Commentator Ruth Levy Guyer muses on the romance of train travel. The rails exert the same pull on her now as they did in childhood. The Romance of Train Travel Never Fades (4:56)

Pullman Porters and the Rise of the Black Middle Class – July 14, 2004 · NPR’s Tavis Smiley talks with author Larry Tye and former Pullman Porter Babe Smock about the legacy of the Pullman Company, the black men that served in its rail cars and Tye’s new book, Rising From the Rails: Pullman Porters and the Making of the Black Middle Class. Pullman Porters and the Rise of the Black Middle Class (8:16)

Rising from the Rails: Pullman Porters – June 30, 2004 · Journalist Larry Tye examines the social history of the porter in Rising from the Rails: Pullman Porters and the Making of the Black Middle Class. Tye says that the job was one of the best for African Americans at the time, and that it was a foothold in the American workplace. Tye reports for The Boston Globe. Rising from the Rails: Pullman Porters (19:57)

References