{"id":882,"date":"2009-10-22T15:09:11","date_gmt":"2009-10-22T19:09:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/?p=882"},"modified":"2009-10-22T15:10:31","modified_gmt":"2009-10-22T19:10:31","slug":"wild-mushrooms-creme","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/recipes\/wild-mushrooms-creme\/","title":{"rendered":"Wild Mushrooms \u00e0 la Cr\u00e8me"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Wild<\/a>Wild mushrooms \u00e0 la cr\u00e8me, served as an appetizer on the lunch and dinner menu at the Columns Hotel during the Chef Chris Canan and Brian Coates era of the mid to late 1980\u2019s, and a very popular menu item. This item served on a \u201cSpider Plate<\/em>\u201d with half of the plate coated by warm demi glace sauce then a spider web design made with a spiral of reduced heavy cream pushed through a syringe and then alternating lines made with a paring knife to create the spider web effects.<\/p>\n

This image is circa 1985 and taken while working the evening saut\u00e9 station when in the second Sous Chef position. This scanned image, originally taken with an Olympus OM10 35mm camera and printed as a 3×5 photograph, is a bit grainy at higher resolution in this digital format.\u00a0 The appetizer priced at $4.95 at the time seems like a real bargain price today for these delectable morsels. The garnish also consisted of a green onion flower and a tomato rose, adding both color and variety to the place presentation.<\/p>\n

Crickhollow Farms<\/a> out of Jayess, Mississippi drove into New Orleans for a once a week delivery of fresh herbs, edible flowers, rabbit, exotic vegetables and the wild mushrooms. At the time, there were few restaurants buying from them and it was a relatively innovative concept to have a farmer delivering fresh local organically grown product directly to the back door. Turns out, chefs at the Columns Hotel were green, fresh market minded, and had a conscience, but never made any indication of that, it just seemed like the best way to get fresh ingredients from the earth to the table. \u00a0The wild mushrooms varied depending on the time of year but generally were either oysters, chanterelles, shitake, morels or others that were available. Always fresh with the exception of the morels, these in particular purchased dehydrated, rinsed and washed of any sand, and then re-hydrated in a cool bath soaking of brandy for a few days.<\/p>\n

The preparation also includes a small one-ounce portion of Glace de Viande, which typically is a reduced veal stock. The Viande made by taking a quantity of cut and split veal bones and roasting them with a Mirepoix until well browned, typically takes several hours. The bones cut and split expose the interior and marrow, thus aiding the extraction of the gelatinous flavor components. Once the bones cooled, then covered in water with the Mirepoix and brought to a slow simmer, continuing for 8 to 12 hours, typically would be started either early in the evening or sometimes left to slow simmer overnight. Then this is strained through a cheesecloth lined chinoise<\/a> and then put back on the stove to reduce the liquid volume by one-half; all the while skimming any fat or scum from the top, without removing the valuable flavoring. Strained again and then allowed to cool in shallow pans, the gelatinous Viande cut into small cubes and used in various sauces such as this one. Since you many not have the time or inclination to make your own \u201cGlace\u201d, linked here<\/a> is one resource for purchasing small quantities of the golden delicacy.<\/p>\n

This recipe is written for the single portion service from the saut\u00e9 station and adapted here for home use as well.<\/p>\n

Serves 1 portion<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Ingredients<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u00bd<\/td>\nTsp<\/td>\nClarified butter<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
1<\/td>\nTsp<\/td>\nShallots, minced<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2<\/td>\nOz<\/td>\nBrandy<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
1<\/td>\nOz<\/td>\nGlace de Viande<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u00bd<\/td>\nCup<\/td>\nHeavy Cream<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
1<\/td>\nCup<\/td>\nWild mushrooms: chanterelles, morels, oyster, shitake, etc\u2026<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
To taste<\/td>\nSalt and white pepper<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Procedure<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
1.<\/td>\nHeat small saut\u00e9 pan until hot, add clarified butter, and cook shallots until soft.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2.<\/td>\nFlame with the brandy and reduce it by \u00bd the amount then add the glace to melt then add the heavy cream and bring to a full simmer to reduce to sauce consistency.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
3.<\/td>\nAdd the wild mushrooms and cook until tender then season to taste with the salt and white pepper.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
4.<\/td>\nGently dish the mushrooms and cream onto the open side of the spider plate and serve immediately.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This image is circa 1985 and taken while working the evening saut\u00e9 station when in the second Sous Chef position. This scanned image, originally taken with an Olympus OM10 35mm camera and printed as a 3×5 photograph, is a bit grainy at higher resolution in this digital format. The appetizer priced at $4.95 at the time seems like a real bargain price today for these delectable morsels. The garnish also consisted of a green onion flower and a tomato rose, adding both color and variety to the place presentation. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[53,47,18,11],"tags":[184,358,430,261,423,431,429,425,2065,427,282,426,375,424,421,422,428,420],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/882"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=882"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/882\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":885,"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/882\/revisions\/885"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=882"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=882"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/cajunchefryan.rymocs.com\/blog2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=882"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}